Tuesday, October 15, 2024
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Our grapes, our soil

In Luckett Vineyard, you can use this phone booth to call any loved one for free. (Jessica Emin photo)
In Luckett Vineyard, you can use this phone booth to call any loved one for free. (Jessica Emin photo)

Quaint farms, modest homes and fruit orchards decorate the rolling hills of the Annapolis Valley. Cars drive slowly down country roads and cautiously pass tractors headed to family farms. The whistling of the wind and the far off moan of a cow are the only real noise pollution. Life seems slower.

A sweet honey-like aroma settles in the air from the apple blossoms in spring. Young people on rubber tubes can be seen snaking down the river on warm days. The idyllic valley runs East to West along the Northern coast of Nova Scotia. Summers come early and are warm and dry. The mountain ranges on the North and South sides act as shelter from the cool air and the fog coming off the Bay of Fundy. On any given summer day it is likely that the weather in the Valley is hotter and sunnier than the weather in Halifax. It is a climate of its own, and that’s why farmers in the Valley are capable of growing produce that other parts of Nova Scotia or Canada wouldn’t consider, such as corn, peaches, cherries, and grapes.

There are at least 11 vineyards in the province, mostly located in the Annapolis Valley. The vineyards produce delicious white, sparkling and red wines, and are happy to have visitors taste and roam. Some vineyards are only a few kilometers apart, which facilitates hopping from one to the next. You needn’t go far from your own backyard to find outstanding wines, and it’s just a 50-minute drive out of Halifax.

Most of the wines are available at the NSLC, farmer’s markets or local restaurants. Some sparkling wines stand up beside some of France’s staples, getting much praise and winning awards.

Nova Scotia’s signature wine, Tidal Bay, is a blend of white grapes that reflect the terroir of the region. Ten vineyards in the region are producing the blend. Although no two bottles of Tidal Bay are the same, they aim to be similar in style. It is an aromatic wine that has high acidity and low alcohol content. Having a signature wine in Nova Scotia should help consumers associate the region with a specific style, like the wine regions of old-world wine countries—for example, the Bordeaux region’s blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in France.

Having colder winters than most wine regions in the world also allows Nova Scotia to produce outstanding icewine. The production of icewine is different from still wines in that the grapes must be frozen solid for a number of consecutive hours, then pressed while frozen. By pressing the grape whilst frozen only a drop or two of liquid is extracted from each grape, creating a sweeter, thicker and more concentrated wine.  The Nova Scotia wine festivals held in October and February of each year have restaurant and vineyard events showcasing the hard work of local winemakers.

I was fortunate enough to visit a few vineyards at the winter wine festival and tasted some great wines. My two favorites were L’Acadie and Gaspereau. They were very quaint and had friendly knowledgeable tasting staff. L’Acadie Vineyard truly impressed me with their hospitality and traditional method sparkling wines. Although NS seems to be having more luck with their white winemaking, L’Acadie’s red 2010 Passito,  a Ripasso style made of 100 per cent Marechal Foch, had great weight and complexity.  Gaspereau Vineyard was also offering up a great experience with free unlimited tasting of nearly 20 wines, s’mores, snow shoeing and hot chocolate.

Here a few of my favorite Nova Scotian wines, with local take-out pairings and local music:

Jost 2010 Eagle Tree Muscat

Malagash Valley, Nova Scotia $14.99

This wine has a sweet nose with intense aroma of lychee with hints of tropical fruit and light tulip. On the palate it is dry and medium-bodied with refreshing acidity. The most prominent flavours are crisp apple and citrus.

Eat: The Asian-style pork burger at Ace Burger in Gus’ Pub on Agricola Street

Listen to: Jenn Grant, The Beautiful Wild

My rating: 84

L’Acadie Vineyard 2010 Vintage Cuvee

Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia $24.99

This traditional-method sparkling blend overflows with aromas of rising white bread and floral perfume. Light tropical fruit notes dance in the background. The yeasty notes carry over to the palate, mixed with crisp apple. Body, liveliness and complexity find themselves at a crossroads in this bottle.

Eat: Poached eggs and soldiers (sticks of toast for dipping) from Steve-O-Reno’s on Brunswick Street

Listen to: The Heavy Blinkers, The Night And I Are Still So Young

My rating: 89

Gaspereau Vineyards 2011 Warner’s Vineyard Riesling

Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia $17.99

This medium-bodied Riesling smells like a cold fridge full of crisp Macintosh apples and lemon zest. On the palate it is slightly mineral with lingering notes of tart green apple and apricot.

Eat: Fish and chips at Phil’s Seafood on Quinpool Road

Listen to: Joel Plaskett, Ashtray Rock

My rating: 87

Luckett Vineyards Isolde Vidal Icewine

Annapolis Valley, Nove Scotia $25.00

A burst of sweetness with beautiful golden liquid with aromas of ripe peach, apple blossom and honey gives way to an equally sweet palate of red delicious apple and lingering honey.

Eat: Mango gelato or ice cream from Deedee’s Ice Cream on Cornwallis Street

Listen to: Ben Caplan, In The Time of Great Remembering

My rating: 86

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